Extras for Round Up!

Welcome to the goodies page for Round Up! 4 Ways to Knit In the Round. Here you’ll find an assortment of links, mini tutorials, inspirational photos, reference lists, and the like. Thanks for being a student in one of my classes!

Please note: I am a participant in several affiliate advertising programs. They provide a means for me to earn a small fee by linking to affiliated sites. There’s no extra cost to you, these fees just help keep the lights on!


New Version of the Class Fingerless Mitts

Round Up fingerless mittsThe original version of the mitts included a thumb opening designed to show how to create a vertical slit by switching from circular to flat knitting mid-project. Instead of working round and round the outside, the piece is worked alternately on inside (WS) and outside (RS) rows in the flat version of the stitch pattern. The technique can be used to work a few short rows on a circular yoke sweater, creating neck and shoulder shaping.

It’s handy to know this can be done. But we’re making a mitt; perhaps learning how to make the standard “peasant” thumb opening and adding a few rounds above it would be MORE fun. Herein, the revised mitt pattern in two lengths:

Circumference: appprox. 7˝ around
Height: 6 (7½-8˝)

Loosely cast on 20 sts. Join for working in the round, checking work is not twisted. Place beg/end of rnd marker.

Rnds 1-3 knit.
Rnd 4 purl.
Rnds 5-7 [K2, p2] five times.
Rnd 8 purl.
Rnds 9-12 knit.
Rnd 13 (increase) kfb, *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1—21 sts.
Rnd 14 *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rnds 15-18 knit.
Rnd 19 kfb twice, [k1, p1] nine times, k1—23 sts.
Rnd 20*p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

For taller mitts, work 6 rnds of Roman stitch once.

Thumb opening With scrap yarn, knit 5 sts. Slip sts back to left needle.

Work 12 rnds of  Roman Stitch. Bind off knitwise.

Thumb

Double-pointed needles are the easiest tools to use for catching loops while removing waste yarn. You can try to insert the needles before removing the yarn, just to be safe.

Insert one dp under right leg of each of the 5 sts on the bottom of the opening. Turn work upside down. Insert second dp under half loop, then under right leg of 4 sts, then under half loop—11 sts. Turn work right side up.

Next rnd join yarn, pick up 1 st in side edge between bottom and top, k5, pick up 1 st in side edge between top and bottom, k6—13 sts.
Next rnd knit, working picked-up sts through the back loop.
Knit 1 round. Bind off.


Tidy Up Your Fasten Off

Wondering how to tidy up the join between first bound-off and last bound-off stitches in circular knitting? This mini-tutorial illustrates a neat trick for doing so.

Leave a 6 to 8 inch tail off the last stitch, and thread it on your tapestry needle. Notice how the tail seems to come out of the center of a stitch when viewing the bind-off from above (top left). That’s because it is!

Tidying up the join at the end

From left to right, top to bottom.

Bring the needle under both legs of the first bound-off stitch (top center). Then take the needle back into the last bound-off stitch (top right), into the center where the yarn comes out, and to the right. Be careful not to cross the two legs you’re creating! Gently pull to tighten (bottom row), adjusting the tension to match the other bound-off stitches. Weave in the tail end on the wrong side. Neat!


Crochet Center Cast-On

Way back in 2015, I hosted the Creative Knitting Autumn 2015 KAL over on Ravelry. The base project was a set of colorful coasters that could be upsized to a circular lapghan or afghan. And the base of the base project was a set of single-color coasters I’d designed to accompany an article in the magazine back in 2013. Love it when projects play on each other!

The article contained an explanation of a way to cast on at the center that I’d borrowed from crochet. I’d always found starting at the center and working out awkward: dps, falling out of my cast-on stitches left and right. In the sliding-loop method, the stitches are formed around a ring of string, and cinched closed (in effect, the same thing we do when we fasten off a hat worked the other way), providing a firmer foundation for holding slippery sticks in place.

Working from the center out has lots of advantages, but the one I like most is that I can work until I run out (or almost run out!) of yarn. And if I run out before I get the size I need for a project, changing colors (or yarn types) looks better from a design perspective on the outside edge. Of course, you may like the bull’s-eye look more than I do…!

Interested in using your new “Round Up” skills on a project with a closed center? The off-the-cuff made-while-traveling video I made for the KAL on the crochet center cast-on is still up on my Youtube channel. Some day I’ll get the hang of making videos, and redo it. Until then… .


Stripes In the Round: Carry Instead of Cut

Hat with 4 balls of yarn attached.

The four colors are always worked in the same order. Markers show where shaping at top of the hat will shortly take place!

One of the easiest ways to work color in the round is with some simple stripes. At the bottom of this 2015 post you’ll find a mini-tutorial with close up pics on how I like to carry yarns not in use on the inside while making one-row stripes in four colors. Give it a try, and let me know if you have any questions!


References

Bordhi, Cat, Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles. Washington: Passing Paws Press, 2001.
Galeskas, Bev, The Magic Loop, fourth edition. WA: Fiber Trends, 2002.
Radcliffe, Margaret, Circular Knitting Workshop. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, 2012.
Williams, Joyce, “Two Circulars for Knitting Small Circumferences,” Knitter’s Magazine, Summer 2000, p. 61. Sioux Falls, SD: XRX, Inc, 2000.


Knit Lab: In the Round

from: Craftsy


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